Precision Roundup Winter 2023

ROLEX
To mark the 60th birthday of its celebrated Cosmograph Daytona driver’s chronograph, Rolex has given the latest versions (Oystersteel, above) a redesigned case, a metal edge around the Cerachrom ceramic bezel and tweaks to the shape of the hour markers – but the changes are so subtle that only diehard Daytona fans would notice them. Beneath the dial, an upgraded Calibre 4131 movement benefits from the Rolex Chronergy escapement and Paraflex shock absorbers. But don’t expect to walk into your local Rolex dealer and buy one. You’ll have to ‘express an interest’ and then wait many months for the call to collect.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, from £12,700. rolex.com   

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AUDEMARS PIGUET
Launched in 1993, Audemars Piguet’s original Offshore featured a 42mm diameter case measuring 14mm thick with a shamelessly visible gasket beneath its bezel and a crown and push-pieces sheathed in rubber. To mark the model’s 30th anniversary, AP has reinterpreted a version worn by Hollywood star Arnold Schwarzenegger in the 1999 film End of Days. Made from black ceramic complemented by a titanium case back, chronograph pushers and bezel screws, the watch has yellow detailing and comes with a choice of black and yellow textile straps. It’s powered by the in-house 4401 self-winding, flyback chronograph movement – and just 500 examples will be made.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, £53,900. audemarspiguet.com

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JUNGHANS
Founded in 1861 as a maker of wall clocks, Germany’s Junghans grew to become the largest producer of timepieces in the world. But it hit hard times during the noughties and might have disappeared without trace had it not been for spring-manufacturing tycoon Dr Hans-Jochem Steim. He stepped in to save Junghans, which now makes an extensive range of watches such as the new Form A Chronoscope automatic chronograph, left. Available with a choice of orange, grey or ‘curry’ dial highlights, each version features an image of a New York street scene on the back of its 42mm case.
Junghans Form A Chronoscope, £1750. junghans.de 

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MAURICE LACROIX
Back in 2013 Maurice Lacroix launched one of the best-looking watches in its then 38-year history, the Pontos S Diver – but no sooner had it attracted fans than ML canned it in order to focus on its lynchpin Aikon range. Now, however, the most-missed Pontos is back as an all-new dive model which can be had in steel, left, or as a 500-piece limited in bronze. Both versions have textured dials and an inner rotating countdown bezel operated from a secondary crown. Steel models are supplied with one fabric and two rubber straps, while the bronze version is delivered with one in vintage leather and one in blue rubber.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver, from £1800. mauricelacroix.com

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DOXA
The Doxa Sub of 1967 may never have been revived had it not been for the persistence of American fan Rick Marei. In the early 2000s, he enquired about buying a new orange version to match his freshly restored Porsche 911 – but since the Sub was no longer in production, the only way Marei could get one was by ordering a batch of several hundred. He re-sold the bulk online, attracting so much attention that the model was returned to the official Doxa line-up and became a smash hit. This luxurious new Sub 300 Beta Sharkhunter combines a black ceramic case with a bezel and crown made from 18-carat gold.
Doxa Sub 300 Beta Sharkhunter, £6950. doxawatches.com

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HERBELIN
The name Newport will be familiar to yachting types as the well-to-do Rhode Island city famed for its links to sailing, most notably as the venue of the America’s Cup for more than half a century from 1930 on. But in 1983 the defeat of Liberty by Australia II meant the 1987 challenge was staged in Fremantle, inspiring French horologist Jean-Claude Herbelin to commemorate Newport’s long-standing role in the event with a watch named after the city and designed along the lines of the portholes found on transatlantic liners. This new Newport chronograph model, below, measures an anchor-like 43.5mm in diameter and gets a brushed and polished stainless steel case that’s water resistant down to 100m.
Herbelin Newport, £2249. herbelin.com

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BREITLING
Breitling’s business-like Avenger watch was created 20 years ago for use by fighter pilots, hence its robust case, high-visibility dial and shock-resistant mechanism. The Avenger line has been given a major makeover for the 2024 model year, with the old range being replace by three 44mm diameter models – two chronographs and a GMT watch – plus a 42mm automatic. Among the most striking is the 44mm Night Mission chrono which combines a black ceramic case with a dial in black carbon or screaming yellow, above left. Each is supplied on a matching leather strap, with all Avenger models being chronometer certified for accuracy.
Breitling Avenger Night Mission, £TBC. breitling.com

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BELL & ROSS
What began in 1992 as a university project for designer Bruno Belamich and business brain Carlos Rosillo is now a leading name in the watch biz. The original concept was to make watches that had seemingly been ripped from the cockpit of fighter jets, with the first model, the BR-01, featuring a ‘soft square’ case and top-loading screws. But at 46mm it was too big for some, so smaller versions were introduced. Of these, the 42mm BR-03, above, has been especially popular – and the trend for downsizing has seen it reduced by 1mm around the edges and given thinner lugs and more rounded corners. Six designs are available.
Bell & Ross BR-03, from £3200. bellross.com

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DUCKWORTH PRESTEX
Neil Duckworth has been a British watch industry stalwart since establishing TAG Heuer’s presence in the UK more than 40 years ago. His horological roots can be traced back to the 1920s when his grandfather’s jewellery firm, Prestons, became world -renowned for its Prestex-branded pocket watches. The Prestex name faded into obscurity, but was revived by Duckworth in 2021 with much success. It now offers a range of five different models, the latest of which is the Rivington GMT chronograph, left. The waffle dial can be had in green, orange, blue or black smoked finishes and there’s a choice of straps.
Duckworth Prestex Rivington GMT, from £795. duckworthprestex.com

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WILLIAM WOOD
British entrepreneur Jonny Garrett found horological inspiration in the exploits of his firefighter grandfather William Wood – and the watches bearing his name are not short on symbolism. The Triumph chronograph, above, features a crown forged from part of a 1920s fireman’s helmet, brass push pieces, a strap made from a piece of recycled firehose and a dial based on a fire tender’s cockpit instruments. You even get an ‘in case of fire’ sapphire case back, and each watch is supplied with a pair of helmet cufflinks – the set being contained in a box designed to look like a fire alarm.
William Wood Triumph, £2525. williamwoodwatches.com

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TUDOR
There were radical things happening in horology back in 2012, but the smash-hit of that year’s Baselworld show was the burgundy bezel Heritage Black Bay designed by Davide Cerrato (now CEO of Bremont) that led Tudor’s re-launch in the US and Europe. Those first BBs are now collectible but, for similar money, you can have a new version, left, with manufacture movement, METAS certification (confirming qualities of accuracy, water resistance and anti-magnetism) and a five-year warranty. The only thing missing is the original Heritage Black Bay’s gnarled leather strap – the new one’s on rubber.
Tudor Black Bay, from £3530. tudorwatch.com

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TAG HEUER
TAG Heuer has brought 81-year-old Japanese racing driver Tetsu Ikuzawa back into the limelight – more than 40 years after he retired from competition. Ikuzawa’s return to fame is the result of his fashion influencer daughter, Mai, encouraging TAG Heuer and watch customiser Bamford Watch Department to create a Team Ikuzawa tribute piece, left. The Carrera chronograph gets a white dial with red highlights, a scheme inspired by the livery of some of the cars driven by Ikuzawa, one of Japan’s most successful drivers and, in 1973, the joint-first Japanese person to compete at Le Mans (alongside Hiroshi Fushida).
TAG Heuer Carrera Team Ikuzawa by Bamford, £5250. tagheuer.com