TAG Heuer’s Monaco introduces a radically simplified chronograph mechanism

Regular readers of Precision may be all too familiar with the TAG Heuer Monaco – there have been so many versions of it that it crops up here with almost monotonous regularity. So, if you feel you’ve had a bellyful of Monaco musings, forgive us for bringing you more. This latest incarnation merits a mention since TAG Heuer says it represents “one of the most significant movements in the history of watchmaking for the time recording function”.

That means it contains an all-new type of chronograph mechanism, inset, that does away with the usual levers, wheels and springs in favour of a simplified set-up of two flexible components: one for starting and stopping, the other for re-setting.

It has taken five years to develop and features an oscillator (or balance wheel, the component driven back and forth by the hairspring) made entirely from carbon, with the movement inverted so that the winding barrel, gear train and aforementioned Carbonspring balance are on the dial side.

The use of carbon for the oscillator improves the new TH80-00 calibre’s resistance to magnetism and results in less friction than a conventional beryllium bronze set-up, making for greater accuracy and reliability.

But the real game-changer, says the brand, is its ‘compliant chronograph mechanism’. Designed to reduce friction while improving durability and precision, the Evergraph movement almost eliminates the need for lubrication and – unlike some of TAG Heuer’s past concept watches – is a fully formed package which is already in production.

As the various elements of the mechanism are produced using LIGA technology (that is, lithography, electroplating and moulding) they could be made on a large scale that would enable it to be used in other TAG Heuer models such as the Carrera. For now, it’s available only in the Monaco, which has regularly been used to showcase ingenious new mechanisms since the turn of the century.

Memorable models include the flip-case Monaco 69 of 2003 with analogue time-telling on one side and a digital stopwatch on the other, and the ultra shock-resistant Monaco 24 with a floating dial held in place by a car-like suspension system. Most of these have disappeared without trace – but the Evergraph may well be around, well, forever…

TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph, £20,750. tagheuer.com

Eberhard launched its first watch dedicated to Italian racer Tazio Nuvolari back in 1992, establishing a collection that has become a multi-model lynchpin of the brand. This latest Nuvolari tribute features a 40mm steel case housing a dial with decoration in the form of a repeat pattern of a 3D pyramid and the initials ‘TN’ in yellow within a tortoiseshell shape – a reference to the driver’s trademark yellow racing sweater and the gift of a small, gold tortoise given to him by Italian aristocrat, poet and playwright Gabriele D’Annunzio.

Eberhard & Co Tazio Nuvolari, £4250. eberhard-co-watches.ch

Chopard’s involvement with the Mille Miglia as a main partner and timekeeper since 1988 means new MM chronograph designs are launched annually to coincide with the 1000-mile rally, which runs from Brescia to Rome and back. One of the fresh models honours the old car world’s appreciation of ‘preservation’ with a case made from Chopard’s patented Lucent Steel that has been finished with a DLC coating and gently roughed-up – to give an impression of ‘weathering’. Just 100 examples are available.

Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Patina, £10,300. chopard.com