Let’s take a look through the arched window… Desder’s debut watch, the D001, is limited to just six pieces
Followers of GT World Challenge may have seen the announcement that the series has a new ‘presenting partner’ in the form of a company called Desder. Never heard of it? That’s not surprising, since it’s a fledgling watch brand which is currently in the process of building its first model, the D001.
Set to be made in just six examples, the D001 is an ambitious, high-end watch featuring a complex, triple-axis tourbillon especially created by genius horologist Luca Soprana, a connoisseur’s maker who creates only around 10 watches per year under his own dial name.
With the mechanism perfected, Desder founder Fabrizio Nardini commissioned fellow Italian Mo Coppoletta – a respected luxury designer, brand consultant and tattooist to the stars – to create a suitable case. According to Nardini, the watch needed to have a close connection with Modena’s ‘Motor Valley’ where Desder is based, while also projecting a retro vibe reminiscent of the streamlined era of the 1920s and ’30s.
Coppoletta, who has previously designed watches for Bulgari and Gagà Laboratorio, met the challenge by producing this spectacular creation – a driver’s watch in the old tradition, with the time display positioned on the side of the wrist rather than on top to make it easier to see while gripping a steering wheel.
Three arched ‘windows’ give a view onto a digital jumping hours display on the left and a digital constant minutes display on the right – with the mesmerising, ever-turning tourbillon regulator taking pride of place in the middle.
The 465 components and 63 jewel bearings that make up the mechanism are housed in the case, which is hewn from titanium in a triple teardrop shape, inset, inspired by art deco cars.
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The top of each of the three sections it comprises are fitted with sapphire crystal ‘canopies’ that allow the inner workings of the spectacular ‘engine’ to be seen in all their glory, with the case culminating in a jet-like ‘nose’ opposite the dial side where you’ll find the crown for re-charging the hand-wound movement.
Stéphane Ratel, founder of SRO Motorsports Group that established the GT World Challenge, says Desder was brought on board as a partner for the series because it “comes directly from the culture of Italian engineering and craftsmanship that has defined racing history for generations”.
If the watch proves to be a hit, further models are set to follow.
Desder D001, £POA. desder.com
Bomberg is an independent Swiss dial name that was founded in Neuchatel 14 years ago, since when it has established itself as both a maker of motor sport-inspired watches and a sponsor of the 24H Series and the Radical Cup Europe – as well as GT4’s Ruben del Sarte, who drives a Toyota GR Supra for Mirage Racing. Del Sarte has been spotted in the pits wearing various versions of this Apex Carbon chronograph with its unusual ‘woven’ dial, behind which sits a Swiss-made Ronda quartz movement.
Bomberg Apex Carbon Chronograph, £1095. bombergwatches.com
Back in 2013 a Breitling Top Time snapped up for £25 at a car-boot sale turned out to be the actual watch worn by Sean Connery in the 1963 James Bond film Thunderball. It went on to fetch more than £150,000 at Christie’s, making this trio of Top Time Aston Martin models seem affordable. Intended to pay tribute to the celebrated DB5, each features a dial encircled by a wooden ring inspired by the car’s steering wheel and hand-coloured ‘gradient’ straps echoing leather upholstery. Choose from 36.5mm or 40mm case sizes.
Breitling Top Time Tribute to Aston Martin DB5, from £8650. breitling.com
